I hate The Blue Potato. Because if you eat here often enough, you’ll never be able to enjoy the food in lesser restaurants. It was set up by Shaun Kenworthy, an English chef who worked at various of Sir Terence Conran’s restaurants in Europe, came to Calcutta as Executive Chef of the Park hotels and stayed on.

It’s a simple place: seats just 38 people and focuses on the food. We read through the menu and wanted to try everything, so we ordered the Chef’s Platter and a Dessert Sampler. It was an appreciation course that took us through a confit salad of warm spiced duck with red currant jelly; bacon-wrapped espetada, rocket and walnut pesto; pan-seared sea scallops with roasted tomatoes; lamb chops with chickpea mash and cumin dressing; blueberry and lemon pavlova; and vanilla panacotta with fresh cherries. They change the menu every month, so you can eat as often as you like...or can afford. A sign of their seriousness about food: they don’t allow children, except for Sunday lunch.