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The 'Modi-fied' Face Of Varanasi

Varanasi’s twice-elected Member of Parliament (MP), Narendra Modi, has begun to sculpt the eternal city in his own image. His passion project—a wide, swanky corridor around the Kashi Vishwanath temple—has brought increased footfalls to the town. The roads running to the fabled ghats have also undergone a makeover. Just like the ghats themselves, such as Assi. The city’s newest ghat, literally called NaMo, doubles up as a glitzy promenade and a ‘theme park’, where splash pool, inflatable castles, trampolines, and toy rides make Hinduism cool. The new developments, though, also prod us to consider their cost. Many houses and temples were destroyed to accommodate the corridor. The city’s Ganga-Jamuni tehzeeb, too, has begun to change. Earlier this year, the district court allowed daily aartis in the cellar of the Gyanvapi mosque. The Varanasi Nagar Nigam’s new proposals include banning the meat shops within the two-kilometre radius of the Kashi Vishwanath temple and widening the roads in a Muslim-dominated locality, Daalmandi, so that Hindu pilgrims can have easy access to the corridor. As the city gears up to vote in less than two weeks, on June 1, its fate—and narratives of development—await a new chapter.

Manikarnika Ghat | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook

The Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi, where Hindus perform cremations

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Devotees in Varanasi
Devotees in Varanasi | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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Devotees in Varanasi heading towards a temple

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Trash litter on road
Trash litter on road Photo by Priyanka Parashar/Mint via Getty Images
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Trash litter a lane in Daalmandi, Varanasi

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A devotee of Lord Shiva
A devotee of Lord Shiva | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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A devotee reveres Lord Shiva—also known as Mahadev (the greatest God)—on her forehead

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Boat ride in Varanasi
Boat ride in Varanasi Photo by: Rahul Sharma/ INDIAPICTURE/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
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Boat rides near the ghats of Varanasi

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Evening aarti
Evening aarti Photo by: Rahul Sharma/ INDIAPICTURE/Universal Images Group via Getty Images
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Evening aarti at the Dashashwamedh Ghat

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Shops in revamped Varanasi
Shops in revamped Varanasi | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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The revamped road leading to the Dashashwamedh Ghat

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Revamped road to Dashashwamedh Ghat
Revamped road to Dashashwamedh Ghat | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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The road leading to the Dashashwamedh Ghat

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Mukti Bhawan
Mukti Bhawan | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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The priests at Mukti Bhawan, where devout Hindus check in to literally die

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Ustad Bismillah Khan’s house
Ustad Bismillah Khan’s house | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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A room on the terrace in Ustad Bismillah Khan’s house, where the sitar maestro lived and practiced

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Namo Ghat
Namo Ghat | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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The NaMo Ghat in Varanasi

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A saadhu
A saadhu | Photo: Tribhuvan Tiwari/Outlook
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An old saadhu in a gully in Varanasi